The
Yangtze River, originating on the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau,
flows through seven provinces, an autonomous region and
a municipality before it enters the East China Sea. It
is the largest river in China and the third largest in
the world. A boat cruise through the three gorges -- the
Qutang, Wuxia and Xiling -- of the Yangtze River provides
one of the most exciting river trips in the world.
The
trip through the three gorges usually starts from Chongqing,
Sichuan. But it is also possible to board a boat at Yichang
or Wuhan, Hubei, and go upstream; this trip will take
longer but provides a better chance to view the magnificent
gorges. It is also easier to obtain boat tickets for the
upstream journey. We'll describe the downstream trip,
however, since that is the one most tourists take.
Passenger
steamboats leave Chongqing at 7 a.m. each day and anchor
at Wanxian at 6 a.m. the same day. They start sailing
at 4 the next morning and enter the three gorges at about
8 a.m., arriving at Yichang at 4 in the afternoon.
Wanzhou
City
This
city is an important port on the northern bank of the
Yangtze River, 327 kilometers from Chongqing. Nestling
against a mountain and facing the river, Wanxian is well
known for its natural beauty and such ancient sites as
Liuhuan Pond, Fairy's Bridge (Tianxianqiao), and the stone
tablets on Western Hill. Master Li Bai's Rock (Taiyan)
on Western Hill is said to have been where the great Tang
Dynasty poet Li Bai (701-762) once studied. Wanxian produces
fur products, medicinal herbs, tea, and bamboo articles.
Baidi
Located
at the entrance to Qutang Gorge on the northern bank of
the Yangtze River in the east part of Fengjie County,
this town was the birthplace of the ancient State of Bashu
over 2,000 years ago. According to a local folk tale,
when construction of the town began, a stream of white
steam rose up from a well, like a white dragon flying
up to heaven. The town was therefore named Baidi, meaning
Heavenly White Dragon. During the Three Kingdoms Period
(220-280), when Emperor Liu Bei of Shu retreated to Baidi
after a disastrous defeat at the hands of the State of
Wu, he fell fatally ill. Before his death, he entrusted
state affairs and the guardianship of his son Liu Chan,
the future emperor of Shu, to his prime minister, Zhuge
Liang. This incident later became known as "entrusting
the orphan at Baidi," a historical event which was
much described in Chinese literature.
Qutang
Gorge
As
you travel downstream, this is the first of the three
gorges of the Yangtze River. Ninety-three kilometers long,
it is flanked on both sides by steep mountain peaks and
is often veiled by a thick mist on the river. The river
suddenly narrows here to a width of 100 meters (150 meters
at the widest point), and Qutang Gorge is therefore known
as the "throat" between Sichuan and Hubei provinces.
Sheer precipices on both sides form a colossal gate over
the river, called Dragon Gate (Kuimen). The water roars
through the gorge like galloping horses. To the north
of the gorge there are several scenic spots including
the town of Baidi, the Overhanging Monk Rock (Daoguaheshangshi),
the Mengliang Ladder (Mengliangti), Bellows Gorge (Fengxiangxia),
the Ancient Passageway (Guzhandao), and Pheonix Spring
(Fenghuangquan).
Wuxia
Gorge
In
this gorge the zigzagging course of the river is sometimes
obstructed by rocks, but the everchanging scenery is delightful.
This gorge is flanked by oddly shaped mountain peaks,
many of which are connected with beautiful legends. One
of these is Fairy Peak (Shenn|feng), which looks like
the silhouette of a beautiful nymph veiled in clouds.
According to the legend, the nymph's name was Yao Ji,
the twenty-third daughter of the Queen Mother of the West.
Out of sympathy for the boatmen who had to navigate the
dangerous gorge, she decided to come and help them dredge
the river. She stood by the river day and night until
she finally turned into a peak. A temple was built on
the hillside in memory of this kindhearted nymph.
Xiling
Gorge
This
gorge is known for its dangerous rapids, sharp turns,
and numerous reefs and shoals. It consists of four smaller
gorges called Military Books and Sword (Bingshubaojian),
Bull's Liver and Horse's Lung (Niuganmafei), Kongling,
and Lantern Shadow (Dengying). The recent construction
of the Gezhouba water control project has helped calm
the torrents but the charms of the scenery remain the
same.
|