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Many
people regard Tongli as a substitute for Zhouzhuang because
Tongli has a similar history and natural scenery, but
is much less crowded. Tongli also has its own unique features
which are worth exploring and experiencing.
Though
long outshined by Zhouzhuang, Tongli is a halcyon and
idyllic spot location in Wujiang City. The well-preserved
waterside town has a history of more than 1,000 years.
Tongli
is divided into seven islands intersected by 15 canals.
Because of the landscape, almost all of the buildings
in the town are along the waterfront. In front of the
buildings, small stairs leading to the canals were built,
which are convenient for residents to wash clothes and
for traveling around the town by boat.
Arched
roofs, lofty gables, stone bridges and green willows lining
the banks can be found almost everywhere in the town.
They help create a poetic and romantic atmosphere, especially
in early spring when trees are budding and refreshing
drizzles are frequent.
The landscape also makes Tongli a town of bridges. There
are 49 stone bridges linking different sections of the
town, each displaying a different style.
Probably
the most notable are Taiping (Peace and Tranquility) Bridge,
Jili (Luck) Bridge and Changqing (Lasting Celebration)
Bridge. They are known collectively as Ternate Bridges,
as they cross three rivers and form a natural ring road.
The Ternate Bridges are fortunate symbols in the eyes
of the local residents and they walk over them for good
luck during weddings or birthday parties.
The
oldest bridge in Tongli is Siben (Reflecting Origin) Bridge,
which was built in the Song Dynasty (960-1279), while
the smallest bridge is called Dubu (Single Step) Bridge
and is only one-and-a-half meters long and less than one
meter wide.
Thanks
to the lakes and waterways, Tongli stayed away from the
numerous wars which swallowed many other beautiful towns
in ancient times. Its former glory can be found in many
well-preserved ancient residential and monastic buildings.
In fact, the town is known as a "museum of ancient
Chinese architecture," as about 40 percent of the
houses and temples in the town date back to the Ming (1368-1644)
and Qing dynasties.
With
their whitewashed walls, black tiled roofs, carved wooden
windows and elegant wood structures, these buildings feature
the harmonious combination of residential buildings and
gardens.
Among
them, Tuisi (Retreat and Meditation) Garden is the most
famous, especially after it was listed as a World Cultural
Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific
and Cultural Organization in 2000.
This
garden was built by a former royal official Ren Lansheng
in 1886 during the Qing Dynasty, after he retired.
"When
in office, one should be loyal to the emperor; when away
from office, one should meditate upon his previous faults."
This was the motto of Chinese officials in imperial times
and where the garden's name "Retreat and Meditation"
came from.
The western part of the garden is the residential quarter,
including a sitting hall, a tea hall and the main hall.
The eastern part is the scenic area dotted by pavilions,
terraces, winding causeways and rockeries.
Covering
an area of 6,600 square meters, the garden is shaded by
lush trees and embroidered with various bonsais and flowers.
Red carps swim in the ponds, and various birds chirp in
the woods. One can feel a classical elegance and harmony.
But
Tongli is more than just a town with old bridges, houses
and gardens. It is a place where one can rest his heart
and totally discard the cares of life for a while.
One
can stroll around the town along its stone-paved lane,
see women washing clothes by the canals, elderly ladies
doing morning exercise in groups, men playing cards in
teahouses, and fishermen paddling through the waterways
with their solemn cormorants perched on the boats.
Spending
little money, one can enjoy a fine array of local specialties.
Teahouses can be found everywhere and one can drink the
fresh green tea served in clay pots.
In the past 10 years, Zhouzhuang in Jiangsu Province was
a popular choice for those who want to have a touch of
nostalgia. Water, bridges, age-old buildings and unspoiled
folk customs have earned it the title of "Oriental
Venice." More and more people swarm here to seek
peace and retreat, only to find that the tiny town bursting
with visitors from all over the world. Fame has made it
hard to spend a quiet and soothing holiday in Zhouzhuang.
Thus, Tongli, a neighboring town, has become an alternative
destination.
Best
time to visit
Tongli features four distinct seasons, each worth experiencing.
April-July is the best season when the climate is the
most pleasant and scenery is the most beautiful with sprouting
plants. A winter visit can give people a different experience
when the town blanketed by snow is like a traditional
Chinese painting.
Transport
Tongli is only 18 kilometers away from Suzhou and 80 kilometers
away from Shanghai. The express bus from Shanghai to Tongli
departs from Shanghai Stadium at 8 a.m., 9 a.m., 10 a.m.
and 11 a.m. The journey takes two hours. There are shuttle
buses from Suzhou Railway Station or Suzhou Bus Station
to Tongli, with the journey ranging 35-50 minutes.
Admission
A package ticket including most of the famous gardens
costs 50 yuan (US$6).
Food
Never miss the chance to taste fresh aquatic plants and
fish. Most of the food is sweet. Famous snacks include
smoked fish, dried bean curd, cakes made of glutinous
rice and spring rolls (fried stuffed rolls).
Lodging
Family lodges are the first choice. Two family lodges
are highly recommended by travel buffs on the Internet.
They are Lu's Hostel (0512-63330674) and Wanshun Hostel
(0512-63331608, 63907608), both in the center of the town. |