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Taoranting
Park, situated in the southwest, derives its name from
the Joyous Pavilion that once stood on the grounds of
the Temple of Mercy (Cibeiyuan).
Jiang
Zao, a secretary in the Ministry of Works, built the pavilion
in 1695 during the reign of Emperor Kangxi. So it was
also known as Jiang Pavilion. In the Ming and Qing dynasties,
a brick kiln was built in the neighborhood of the Temple
of Mercy at what is now the Kiln Terrace. Jiang served
as a director in the kiln and came to enjoy the grounds
to have a pavilion built there. The original wooden inscription
still hangs inside the gate of the Temple of Mercy. The
characters inscribed on it, "Taoran" (Joy),
in Jiang' s own calligraphy, are drawn from the lines
of a famous poem by the Tang poet Bai Juyi: "Let
us wait until the chrysanthemums are golden and our home-brewed
wine matured, then with us all shall be intoxication and
joy." The original pavilion, which was built on a
hill, stood higher than the city battlements. For this
reason, it was a favorite destination for Beijing residents
on the Double Ninth Festival (9th day if the 9th lunar
month), when tradition prescribed that one should "ascend
to a high place."
During
the Jin Dynasty the Taoranting Park lay in the suburbs
of the capital. On the southwestern side of the Central
Island in the lake was a small hillock on which stood
the ruins of the Temple of Mercy of the Liao Dynasty.
Today Liao and Jin dynasty stone pillars inscribed with
Buddhist scriptures can still be found here.
In
the past, scholars from all over China wrote poems and
essays in praise of Taoranting, though in imperial times,
the scenery was not particularly attractive. To the north
of the pavilion was a residential district of single-story
dwellings and to the east a group of desolate tombs. To
the south stood the bare city walls and to the west a
stretch of shallow water filled with reeds. Houses of
ordinary citizens were not permitted to stand at an elevation
higher than the emperor' s palace, and apart from the
hillock on the Central Island, all the highest points
in the city were occupied by the imperial family. This
was therefore the only place where the common people could
come for a view of the city. As visitors increased, the
original small pavilion was demolished to make way for
a large building, which in turn was augmented by three
buildings still found today inside the Temple of Mercy.
In
the past century several famous revolutionaries were closely
associated with the Taoranting Pavilion. At the end of
the Qing Dynasty Kang Youwei, Liang Qichao and Tan Sitong
came here to plan the Reform Movement of 1898. Zhang Taiyan
was imprisoned in the nearby Dragon Spring Temple for
his opposition to the usurpation of state power by Yuan
Shikai. In the early years of the Republic of China, Sun
Yat-sen attended political meetings in the pavilion, and
on several occasions Li Dazhao organized secret revolutionary
activities in the most westerly of the three rooms in
the northern courtyard of the Zhunti (Cundi) Hall. On
the afternoon of August 6, 1920, five progressive societies
from Beijing and Tianjin held a joint meeting in the pavilion
which was attended by Zhou Enlai and Li Dazhao. The tombs
of the revolutionaries Gao Junyu and Shi Pingmei are on
the northern side of the Central Island.
Noted
bureaucrats and officials also flocked to Taoranting.
The late Qing official Zhang Zhidong, for example, frequently
held political discussions here. The Baobingshi (Room
Embracing Ice), once Zhang' s villa, has been renovated
and is now a hall for cultural activities.
Although
Taoranting has a long history and has numerous sites of
historical interest, up until the eve of the founding
of the People's Republic in 1949, it was little more than
a breeding ground for flies and mosquitoes. After dark,
the area became a haven for criminals and the island'
s pines were frequently used for suicides by hanging.
In 1952, the People' s Government transformed the stagnant
pond into a lake. In its center, a gourd-shaped island
divides the lake into three sections-West Lake, East Lake
and South Lake. The earth dredged out was heaped up to
form seven small hills on the lake' s perimeter. The hills
have been planted with flowers, trees and shrubs. The
two memorial archways that once towered over East and
West Chang' an boulevards, and the Tower of Painted Clouds
(Yunhuilou) and the Sweet-Sounding Pavilion (Qingyinge),
both once stood on the eastern bank of Zhongnanhai 9Central
and South Lakes), have also been moved into the park.
Inside
the park, facing the northern gate are two identical memorial
archways painted in brilliant colors. A path leads through
to the spit of land which connects with the Central Island.
On
the island, a series of steps made of Taihu stones from
Jiangsu Province leads to the top of the Glorious Autumn
Mound. On the southern slope pf the mound is the site
of two tombs, the Fragrant Tomb and Parrot Tomb. The graveyard
was originally part of the old Flower Spirit Temple and
these two small tombs still have engraved stele standing
before them. In the past, several different stories have
been attached to the Fragrant Tomb. One relates that after
the Manchus took control of Beijing in 1644, the people
were forced to change their mode of dress. Adherents of
the Ming Dynasty, cherishing the memory of their old rulers,
buried their Ming Dynasty garments here in a gesture of
loyalty.
Another
story relates how a certain court official of the Qing
submitted numerous memorials to the throne but received
no response. In a fit of frustration, he gathered up all
his memorials and other writings and buried them here.
Fearing that his action might arouse imperial wrath, he
covered his tracks by naming the site the Fragrant Tomb.
Still another legend explains that this is the tomb of
Concubine Xiang (Fragrance), a favorite of Emperor Qianlong,
and yet another relates that this the spot where an unsuccessful
candidate in the national imperial examinations buried
his brushes, ink and examination paper in his frustration.
The
Parrot Tomb stands a few meters to the west of the Fragrant
Tomb. The writing on the front of the stela before the
tomb. The writing on the front of the stela before the
tomb is blurred, but on the back reads "Parrot Tomb."
According to the Notes from the Ten Thousand Willows Chamber,
the Qing calligrapher Deng Wanbai buried his pet parrot
here after it was killed by a cat. The text on the stele
reads, "Here lie brushes and writings, though under
the name of a bird and of fragrant grasses," and
it can be inferred that the Fragrant Tomb and the Parrot
Tomb were the work of a single hand.
To
the east of the Glorious Autumn Mound is a small hill
formerly called the Kiln Lump (Yaogeda). When the park
was formally opened after 1949, the hill was heightened
and planted with trees, and a path was built leading to
its peak.
Entry ticket: 2 yuan;
Add: 19 Taiping Jie, Xuanwu District;
Transport: Bus No.s 40, 20, 59, 102, 106, 122, 819;
Tel: 63536526. |