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The
Three Rear Lakes (or Shicha Lakes), which include the
Shicha Lake or Front Lake (Qianhai), Rear Lake (Houhai)
and Jishui Lake, are situated to the north of downtown
Beijing between the Di' anmen (Earthly Peace) Gate and
the Deshengmen (Moral Victory) Gate. The lakes were given
this name to distinguish them from the two lakes of Zhongnanhai
and the lake in Beihai Park.
Shicha
Lake, to the southwest of the Drum Tower, was called the
Great Lake (Dapozi) in the Yuan Dynasty. Weeping willows
line its shores, and rowboats fill its waters. Young and
old through the summer and autumn enjoy swimming.
North along the dyke is the gently arched stone Silver
Ingot Bridge (Yindingqiao) that marks the boundary between
Shicha Lake and Rear Lake. Rear Lake is much large than
Shicha Lake. Standing on the bridge looking westward,
Rear Lake appears to be a silver river lined by brilliant
green willows. The view at sunset, when the evening clouds
atop the Western Hills become tinged with color, is known
as "Gazing at the mountains from the silver ingot."
Among the trees on the southern bank are thatched pavilions,
windbreaks of pine and flower beds, as well as swings,
slides, seesaws and merry-go-rounds.
Half
a kilometer west of Rear Lake lies the Jishui Lake, also
known as Jingye Lake for the Jingye Temple on its northern
bank. It is also called Western Lake due to its position
west of Shicha Lake.
In
the northeastern corner of Jishui Lake is a small island
with a temple built by Emperor Yongle (reigned 1403-1424),
originally called the Convent of the Goddess of Mercy
Who Calms the Waters. In 1761, Qianlong had the temple
reconstructed and erected a stela inscribed with a poem
in the emperor' s own calligraphy relating the story of
the dredging of Jishui Lake. Behind the temple is a massive
stratified rock, which, according to tradition, is a meteorite,
which landed here more than 1,000 years ago. If you look
very closely, you can see a lion and a chicken in the
rock. So the area obtained its name of Chicken and Lion
Beach.
In
ancient time Jishui Lake was a river port. According to
the Yuan history: biography of Guo Shoujing, "In
1923, the emperor (Kublai Khan) passed through Jishui
Lake on his way back from Shangdu and observed a convoy
of boats liked stern to stern, so numerous as to render
the water invisible." This suggests that grain transport
boats were unloaded in these lakes as early as the 13th
century.
By
the time of the Ming Dynasty the canals had silted up
to such a degree that grain could no longer be transported
so far inland by boat, Jishui Lake became a pleasure resort
for high officials and members of the nobility, and pleasure
boats replaced the grain convoys. In the early Ming, a
scholar named Wang Huang traveled to Beijing and wrote
a poem with this line: "The wine boats on the lake
are taller than buildings." At that time the shores
of the lake were lined with the villas and gardens of
the upper class.
Under
the Qing, Jishui Lake remained largely unchanged save
that the villas became the residences of Manchu imperial
princes and high officials. In Prince Chun' s Mansion
water from the lake was diverted into the gardens to embellish
the mansion grounds. Famous scholars continued to live
on the lake's shores up through the Republican period
despite the fact that the banks had become rather dilapidated.
In 1951 the People's Government dredged the lake. Today
the water is so clean that the bottom is clearly visible.
Add: (for boat renting) Haomeng Jiangnan Matou, Ping’an
Dajie, on the opposite of the North Gate of Beihai Park;
Price: It costs around 300 yuan to rent a boat with snacks
and a music player for a cruise of an hour.
Transport: Bus No. 13, Trolley Bus No. 107, get down at
the stop of Beihai Houmen; buses No. 22, 27, 38, 44, alight
at Xinjiekou Huokou;
Tel: 64012675, 66159097. |