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Xiangshan
Park, also known as the Forest Park, is located on the
eastern sides of the Western Hills, approximately 10 kilometers
to the west of Beijing.
Due
to its high elevation and dense cover of trees, spring
arrives late in the area and summer days are always pleasantly
cool. The best time to visit the park is late fall, when
the smoke tree leaves turn red. The trees make the grandest
display of all. There are also groves of apricots, pears,
peaches and lilacs adding their fragrance, and the more
solemn evergreens, whose contribution to the local beauty
is unrestricted by seasonal changes.
A
poem of Marshal Chen Yi reads:
The
red leaves of the Western Hills
Because even redder as the frost thickens.
And
an earlier poem by the Tang Dynasty poet Du Mu treats
the same subject:
Stopping
in my sedan chair in the evening, I sit admiring the maple
grove;
The frost-covered leaves are redder than the flowers of
spring.
In
1186 of the Jin Dynasty, the Xiangshan Temple was built
here and for a period served as the emperor's traveling
lodge. In 1745, Emperor Qianlong had a number of large
halls; pagodas, memorial archways and leisure pavilions
built and changed the name of the area to the Garden of
Peacefulness (Jingyiyuan). This complex served the famous
Qing ruler as one of his summer palaces and became one
of the three favorite hills of Qianlong, beside Jade Spring
Mountain (Yuquanshan) and Longevity Hill (Wanshoushan)
in the Summer Palace.
Qianlong'
s elaboration of the park consisted of 28 separate vistas,
each with a poetic name: Jade China Cliff, Toad Peak,
Jade Milk Spring, Bell Separated from the Clouds, etc.
Unfortunately, almost every trace of this carefully orchestrated
symphony of landscape architecture, including the blueprints,
was burned or destroyed by the Anglo-French forces and
the eight-Power Allied Forces in the 19th and early 20th
centuries. The more important extant sites are as follows:
Jianxin
Study: Built first in the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty,
this complex of buildings stands to the west of Eyeglasses
Lake. The study contains a semi-circular pond and an adjacent
pavilion, surrounded on three sides by covered galleries.
Beyond the pavilion are rockery hill and a grove of trees
concealing a gazebo.
Zhaomiao
(Luminous) Temple: Constructed in 1780 in the Qianlong
period, this Lamaist temple is said to have been built
especially for the Panchen Lama. In its center, a Red
Terrace rises 10 meters above the ground. On its eastern
side is a memorial the archway of white marble and glazed
tile, while on the slope to the west is a seven-story
glazed pagoda, the eaves of which are hung with tiny bells,
which tinkle with even the slightest breeze.
The
Tree-Covered Imperial Audience Tablet: Located to the
southwest of the Chaoyang Caves, this group of steep cliffs
with numerous trees resembles a giant hu -the rectangular
tablet officials held before themselves in the presence
of the emperor.
Guijianchou
(Worried Ghost) Peak: The main peak of Xiangshan Park,
Worried Ghost Peak had an elevation of 557 meters. Clouds
and mist often engulf its precipitously angled cliffs,
which give the two large stone excrescences of the peak
a resemblance to incense burners. It is from this that
the name Xiangshan or Incense Mountains (and not Fragrant
Hills, as the area had been mistakenly called for generations)
is derived.
From
the peak, the winding Yongding River like a white silk
belt fluttering among the western valleys, the Marco Polo
Bridge on the river, Shijing Mountain, the Summer Palace
and Jade Spring Mountain can all be seen from here, and
on a clear day one can even make out the skyline of Beijing.
Entry ticket: 5 yuan (slow seasons), 10 yuan (busy seasons);
Add: Xiangshan Lu, Haidian District;
Transport: Buses No. 360, 318, 714, 733, 737, 833, 904.
Tel: 62591155, 62591264. |